QUESTION TIME:
Q: What do eggs and potatoes have in common?
At Simon George & Sons we like to work closely with our clients, listen to their needs and then shape our service accordingly. So this week, I thought I would take the opportunity to answer our most frequently asked questions about produce. It is interesting that some of the more ‘commonplace’ produce on our quote tends to generate the most questions, for example one of the most FAQ of our team relates to the classification of eggs (what do they mean and how should they affect my purchasing decisions?). Meanwhile, the #1 most searched product on our blog (by a long way) is the humble potato – with people wanting to know what varieties are out there and how to use them. I have done my best to answer these questions below, should you have any products or produce trends that you would like to see featured on the blog, please don’t hesitate to contact me.
EGGS: Simon George & Sons is HACCP accredited for the storage and distribution of eggs
Purchasing eggs has become much more difficult. With no centralized classification system, egg producers can be accredited by one of any number of different associations, each with very different requirements to achieve accreditation. So what do these mean?
ORGANIC: organic and humane
Buying organic states that the eggs have been produced on a certified ‘organic’ farm by chickens who have been fed only certified organic feed/grain and treated humanely (roam free, outdoor access, no beak-trimming or wing-clipping).
Simon George & Sons stock 60gm organic eggs
FREE-RANGE: access to outdoor areas
There has been some controversy surrounding ‘free-range eggs’ of late, with the lack of a formal definition coming under fire. The number of hens per m² can vary hugely from farm to farm, however 90% of free-range egg producers in Australia are accredited by the Egg Corporation of Australia, which allow farmers to keep an equivalent of 2 hens/m². Free-range hens are housed in sheds but must have access to outdoor area.
Simon George & Sons stock 70gm free-range eggs
BARN-LAID:
Barn-laid is an alternative system to Free-Range farming- the chickens do not have outdoor access but roam freely around a multi-tiered barn that accommodates fundamental needs such as dust-bathing, scratching, enclosed nest boxes. Density of the hens in the barn varies per farmer and accreditation.
Simon George & Sons stock 60 & 70 gm barn-laid eggs from Llandilo farm
CAGE EGGS:
Simon George & Sons sells caged eggs in 50, 60 and 70 gram sizes, these can be supplied in tray pack or carton.
POTATOES:
There are hundreds of potatoes on the markets and with more varieties being developed all the time, the question seems to be- which should you use for what? Below is a list of the most common commercial potato varieties, their classification i.e. waxy vs floury and recommended use.
Waxy: low starch (16-18%) and high moisture content
Best for salads, stews, soups or anything where you want the potato to hold shape
Bintje
Dutch Cream
Kipfler
Nadine
Nicola
Patrone – the salad potato
Pink Eye
Pink Fir Apple
Purple Congo – avoid roasting
Red Delight
Ruby Lou
All-rounders: Are neither waxy nor floury
Lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods
Desiree – avoid frying
Kennebec – chip
Pontiac
Purple Jester
Red Rascal
Royal Blue
Sebago
Spunta
Toolangi delight - gnocchi
Floury: high starch (20-22%) and low moisture content
Release starch when boiled or fried, best for roasting, baking (in skins) and mashing. If you want to make chips or use them in a salad, soak first.
Coliban
Golden Delight
King Edward - mash
Russet Burbank
A: They come alive when you add fresh truffles!
While fresh black truffles are as expensive as they are delicious, they also add a whole new dimension to potato and egg dishes. Simon George & Sons has fresh Black truffles available, with extra class, first class and pieces selling by the gram. With the WA season up and running , the first of the NSW truffles being dug up this week and Tasmanian truffles yet to come -we are looking at a harvest to remember.
Eggs: add unique character to egg dishes without using a single gram. Grab a large glass jar and place a bed of rice at the bottom. Layer your eggs, truffles (wrapped in absorbent paper) and finally a knob of butter on top of the rice. Close the jar and refrigerate for 48 hours, after which the egg, rice and butter will all be infused with the unique truffle aroma.
Potatoes: with your truffle still whole and ready to use, why not add that gourmet touch to your potatoes and finely slice or shave fresh black truffle through a rich, creamy mash.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 19th Jun-25th Jun
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Gai Choy * Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Banana Buds/Bell * Tamarillo (gold)
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Buddha Hands * Cumquats * Green mangoes * Longans * Loquats * Lychee * Rambutan
BUYER'S GUIDE: 19th Jun-25th Jun
The cooler weather has slowed down supply of some products, mainly Honeydews, Tomatoes and Strawberries. Quality is sound, just up in price slightly this week.
Overall the market is in good shape, with plenty to choose from.
Highlights: Australian Truffles Season is up and running and USA cherries Cumquats are on the markets also.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit: Cherries (Imp- USA) * Delicious Apples- med (VIC) * Panama Passionfruit * Pineapple (QLD) * Ruby blush grapefruit (WA)
Vegetable: Brussel sprouts (VIC) * Kipfler Potatoes * Mesclun Lettuce* Red capsicum (QLD) * Silverbeet (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit: Blood Limes (NSW) * Honey Pears * Pink Lady Apples (VIC) * Pomello - red (QLD) * Starfruit- aka Carambola (QLD)
Vegetable: Broad bean (NSW) * Green Peas ( QLD) * Truffles - superior black (WA - new season) * Witlof - white
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply: Baby gold beetroot * Chestnut Mushroom * Snow Peas - expensive * Yellow Zucchini
Not Available: Blood Oranges
IN THE FINEST TRADITION
Q: What is the oldest recipe collection in the world?
It seems that wherever you turn at the moment, Europe is on the tip of everyone’s tongue. Whether it's the Euro versus the dollar, the babushkas performance at Eurovision or the early morning Euro 2012 matches - European Culture is well and truly on the agenda in Australia. So without further ado, this week we're featuring traditional dishes from the hot contenders at the Euro 2012’s competition and celebrating the fresh produce that makes them odds on favourites.
GERMANY
Red Cabbage:
Availability: all year, best Mar – May
Appearance: compact head of smooth red-purple leaves with small white veins
Selection: choose heads that are heavy for size, with crisp, bright leaves
Prep: when cooking add lemon or vinegar to water to protect colour, beware of colour bleeding into other ingredients
Traditional dish: ROTKOHL (sweet & sour red cabbage) - often served with winter dishes such as beef in buttermilk
Modern inspiration: Mustard and sage pork cutlets with red wine cabbage and lentils
SPAIN:
Tomatoes (Heirloom):
Availability: all year, fluctuates
Appearance: compact head of smooth red-purple leaves with small white veins
Selection: choose heads that are heavy for size, with crisp, bright leaves
Prep: when cooking add lemon or vinegar to water to protect colour, beware of colour bleeding into other ingredients
Traditional dish: GAZPACHO – raw vegetable soup served cold
Modern inspiration: Hand-pounded Gazpacho
FRANCE:
Aubergine: aka eggplant
Availability: all year, best Jan - Jul
Appearance: smooth purple fruit- pear shaped with glossy skin
Selection: look for firm, glossy, bright, skin. Should feel heavy for size.
Prep: highly versatile, can be sauteed, baked, roasted, fried, stuffed, stir fried, steamed or grilled
Traditional dish: RATATOUILLE – vegetable dish often used as a side
Modern inspiration: Yotam Ottolenghi's Indian ratatouille recipe
ENGLAND:
Rhubarb:
Availability: all year, best Jun - Dec
Appearance: look likes red celery
Selection: choose stalks that are crisp, firm, glossy and bright
Prep: once leaves are removed, cook and add to pies, crumbles or even slice finely and add to a salad
Traditional dish: RHUBARB & CUSTARD
Modern inspiration: Rhubarb semifreddo and pistachio cream with a honey madeleine
ITALY:
Tuscan Cabbage: aka Black Cabbage or Cavalo Nero
Availability: all year
Appearance: sold in bunches of long dark green leaves. The leaves are heavily bubbled with a thick, white vein from stem to tip
Selection: look for firm, plump stalks and bright, fresh leaves
Prep: traditionally used in soups and pastas or steamed, also a fantastic stir-fry vegetable
Traditional dish: RIBOLITTA: Tuscan Cabbage bread soup
Modern inspiration: Ditalini, borlotti bean and cavolo nero soup
RUSSIA:
Beetroot:
Availability: all year, best during cooler months
Appearance: bright red – deep purple tuber (often has white streaks)
Selection: choose beets that are crisp, firm, glossy and bright- fresh leaves are a good indicator
Prep: rinse in cold water, cook in boiling water, then remove skin
Traditional dish: BORSCHT
Modern Inspiration: Beetroot Soup with fetta
A: While many chefs have heard of ‘De re coquinaria’ (The Art of Cooking by Apicius) there is actually a much older recipe book in the Yale University Collection. The recipes are carved into ancient tablets dating back to approximately 1700BC. Originally believed to be pharmaceutical/medicinal in nature, it was only when successfully deciphered in the mid 80s that they were identified as recipes. Jean Bottero who translated the tablets describes the food as "a cuisine of striking richness, refinement, sophistication and artistry, which is surprising from such an early period. Previously we would not have dared to think a cuisine 4,000 years old was so advanced."
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 12th Jun-18th Jun
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Gai Choy * Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Banana Buds/Bell * Longans * Tamarillo (gold)
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Buddha Hands * Cumquats * Green mangoes * Loquats * Lychee * Rambutan
PLAY THE MARKET
Q: What do SG&S buyers look for in their produce?
The off-peak season has hit Sydney and with the half-way point of the year fast approaching, now is an ideal time to reflect on the year that has been and kick-start your plans for the year to come. In our first bulletin of 2012, I talked about working ‘smarter not harder’ by monitoring the markets and staying a step ahead of fluctuations in both supply and price. Many of you have done just that and participated in one of our guided tours of the Sydney Markets, but for those of you yet to take part or for those seeking further inspiration, we invite you to put yourself in the driver’s seat and join us for an early morning, hands-on exploration of Sydney’s seasonal produce.
These tours enable chefs, procurement managers and other interested parties to experience first-hand how the range, quality and supply of different produce lines fluctuate throughout the year and how this then influences our buyer’s purchasing decisions. We encourage all our clients to take part in a market tour at least once a year, as they not only assist in menu planning, but also help SG&S to stay abreast of the changing needs of your kitchen and ultimately improve the service we provide. To whet the appetite, below are some insights into produce items/classifications that have recently raised interest at our market tours.
POTATOES:
Information on potatoes and best use by variety has to be one of our most ‘Frequently Asked Questions’. With over 66 varieties of tatties commercially grown in Australia, talking directly to the grower/agent, cutting them open and seeing their consistency (floury/waxy etc) can help answer these questions and aid in selection.
PURPLE JESTER:
Availability: Winter crop
Appearance: naturally coloured with the same antioxidants as red grapes, the purple jester has a dark purple skin and bright purple flesh
Characteristics: full potato flavour and aroma
Best for: impact and quality in salads, small baked potato sides etc. Very versatile the purple jester can be baked, roasted, boiled, steamed
POMELOS:
WHITE:
Availability: Mar - Nov
Appearance: light green- yellow thick skin and pale yellow flesh
Characteristics: sweet, mild grapefruit flavour
Best for: fresh consumption
PINK:
Availability: Jun - Nov
Appearance: light green- yellow thick skin and pink flesh
Characteristics: sharper flavour than white variety
Best for: use like a pomegranate in salads or similar dishes
TOMATOES:
Similarly to potatoes there is an abundance of wonderful tomatoes at the markets. With the susceptibility of tomatoes to weather damage however it is helpful to handle and taste different varieties that could substitute for traditional romas or cherries in the kitchen.
HEIRLOOM: Zebrino
Availability: all year
Appearance: small round tomatoes with distinctively striped skin and flesh that varies from a deep green to red-brown
Characteristics: sweet, aromatic flavour
Best for: substitute for cherry tomatoes for high impact colour and a sweet tomato flavour
GOLF BALL: (refers to size rather than variety)
Availability: all year
Appearance: round, red tomato approximately the size of a golf ball
Characteristics: consistent in size, shape, flesh, seeds like a small gourmet tomato
Best for: great as a substitute for Romas and for portion control i.e. breakfast or salad tomato. Also good for roasting whole
BEANS:
As explored in our recent ‘Full of Beans’ bulletin, green beans are sold under classifications of machine picked, hand-picked and baby. Being on site at the markets, inspecting the quality of the beans and sampling their flavour, really is the best way to truly understand these distinctions and which is most suitable to your needs (and budget).
A: Each season the markets see new lines hitting the stands in response to agricultural development and changing culinary tastes, it also sees changing climate conditions and therefore hits and misses from our farmers and their harvests. Every foodservice business is different and as a result each client has individual needs and preferences relating to size, colour, and the maturity of their produce. To meet these needs and stay ahead of the changing market landscape, the buying team at Simon George & Sons works closely with over 400 growers/sellers, filtering through the 2.5 million tonnes of fresh fruit and veges sold at the Sydney Markets each year to source the highest quality produce for our clients at the best possible price.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 5th June - 12th June
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Gai Choy * Thai Basil * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Kachay * Tamarind
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Asian Plum * Cumquats * Green Mangoes * Lychee * Rambutan
BUYER'S GUIDE: 5th June - 12th June
The overall quality on market has improved this week, with most items in good supply and very few shorts or items not available. Tomatoes and Strawberries still have some way to go before they are in their winter mode, however weather permitting this should be in the next week or two. Front runners 'fruit wise' is still the Apples, Pears and Citrus while 'veggie wise' it's Beans, Cauliflowers, Mushrooms & Spuds.
USA Cherries are now in full swing and price is easing weekly. We are stocking the larger Darker Cherry which is slightly more expensive but are the best eating and have the best visual appeal! Smaller fruit is available on request and the price is less.
Truffles: We are waiting for confirmation of our first arrival. The season is looking to be the best since the inception of Truffles Down-under.
Something New: “Samples Available on Request”
- Purple Jester Potatoes- deep purple inside and out
- Russet Burbank Potatoes- great for chipping
- Zebero’s Tomatoes- similar to Black Tigers, available by the punnet
- Heirloom Tomatoes- in good supply
BEST BUYS:
Fruit: Orange- No 2 juicing (NSW) * Packham Pears - green (VIC) * Red Papaya (QLD) * Rockmelon (QLD)
Vegetable: Brussel Sprouts (VIC) * Button Mushrooms (NSW) * Leek - large (TAS) * Potato -washed, large (SA) * Rhubarb (NSW) * Silverbeet (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit: Cherries (Imp- US) * Drinking Coconuts (IMP) * Golden Delicious Apples (VIC) * Honey Pears (VIC) * Red Pommello (QLD) * Strawberries - XL (QLD- New Season)
Vegetable: Asparagus - white (IMP) * Heirloom Tomatoes (NSW) * Mandarins - VIP (QLD) * Royal Blue Potato (TAS)
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply: Chestnut Mushroom * Yellow Butter Bean * Yellow Zucchini
Not Available: Blood Oranges * Purple Asparagus
PUMPKIN PATCH
Q: How did pumpkins become associated with Halloween?
While they may have started out as cattle-fodder, nowadays the pumpkin features widely in kitchens due to their versatility, shelf-life and cost-efficiency. To meet year-round demand pumpkins are grown in every state of Australia, however nigh on three quarters of the pumpkins consumed domestically are produced in NSW or QLD. In 2010 the Food Service industry accounted for around 17% of fresh pumpkin sales, that equates to a healthy 16,743 tonnes.
The fruit (or culinary vegetable) that Australian’s refer to as ‘pumpkins’ are actually a mix of pumpkins and winter squash from three different species of the Cucurbita genus: Cucurbita Maxima (Jarrahdale, Queensland Blue, Golden Nugget), Cucurbita Moschata (Butternut Pumpkin, Jap) and Cucurbita Pepo (Sweet Dumpling, Orange Minikin)
Selection: It is the skin of the pumpkin that protects the wonderful orange flesh from deterioration, so avoid any that are scarred, bruised or cracked. Look for a bright, plump pumpkin that is heavy for its size and boasts a thick, hard rind.
CUCURBITA MAXIMA:
QUEENSLAND BLUE:
Availability: all year
Appearance: big, heavy, ribbed, deep blue-grey skin and orange flesh
Characteristics: drier that other varieties, full flavoured
Best for: scones, boiling or baking
JARRAHDALE:
Availability: all year
Appearance: large round variety with light blue/grey skin and a lovely deep yellow-orange flesh
Characteristics: cuts easily, sweet, firm flesh
Best for: baking – very moist therefore doesn’t lend well to boiling
GOLDEN NUGGET:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, round pumpkin with orange - red, lightly ribbed skin and bright orange flesh
Characteristics: up to 1.5kg/15cm diameter, easily cut – appearance is its main selling point though it has sweet, creamy flesh
Best for: soup or stuffed as a single serve vessel – high seed ratio if you need roasted pumpkin seeds
CUCURBITA MOSCHATA:
BUTTERNUT PUMPKIN: aka Butternut Squash
Availability: available all year but at best in April, Jul-Aug, Dec-Jan
Appearance: elongated pear shape with smooth, golden-brown skin and orange flesh
Characteristics: dense, dry flesh with a lovely smooth texture and nutty flavour – flavour improves with storage – no need to peel
Best for: everything- especially roasting. Butternut is one of the most popular varieties due to its versatility
JAP: aka Ken Special, Kent, Delica
Availability: all year
Appearance: small mottled green/grey pumpkin (1-3kg), yellow to orange flesh
Characteristics: softer and drier than most, cuts easily and boasts a mild, sweet flavour
Best for: stuff, bake, steam, mash
CUCURBITA PEPO:
SWEET DUMPLING:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small pumpkin with white and green stripes and creamy, firm flesh
Characteristics: mildly sweet, honey nut flavour
Best for: perfect for roasting and stuffing
ORANGE MINIKIN: aka baby pumpkin
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, squat pumpkin, with ribbed, orange skin and yellow-light orange flesh
Characteristics: high seed content, ideal for hollowing and using as a single serve vessel
Best for: baking whole and stuffing with a savoury meat or rice filling – soups or roast the seeds
A: Samhain (All Hallows Eve) was believed to be the day that the souls of the departed (good and bad) were free to roam amongst us. It was Celtish tradition on this day to carve ‘Jack-o-Lanterns’ to both welcome the souls of loved ones and ward off unwelcome spirits. Traditionally Jack-o-lanterns were carved from beets, turnips or potato, however when almost ¾ million people fled to America during the Irish potato famine they brought the tradition but not the beets or gourds to carve. Therefore the pumpkin (native to central and south America) became a larger, easily accessible substitute.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 29th May - 5th June
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Gai Choy * Tamarind * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Cumquats * Longans * Tamarillo (gold)*
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Green Mangoes * Lychee * Red Pomelos * Rambutan