AUTUMN HARVEST
Q: How long is the rain likely to last?
Summer is officially gone and with it go the luscious stonefruits, berries and tomatoes that characterise Sydney’s summer menus. So what can we expect from Autumn 2012?
Sydney’s tropical (read: rainy) summer has taken its toll on local produce (especially ground grown crops- herbs, asian vegetables, tomatoes) however consistent supply from interstate has managed to keep the markets relatively stable. Unfortunately, we are now starting to see poor weather impact interstate products and if the rain continues we can expect to see quality and price issues across the board.
On a positive note all this wet weather has brought the elusive Pine Mushrooms to the markets early, not to mention apple, pears, exotic fruits , cabbage lines and root veg are all looking relatively consistent and are good eating.
AUTUMN FLAVOURS:
APPLES/PEARS/QUINCE:
New season apples, pears and quince are abundant in Autumn with almost all varieties of apple and pear available over the course of the season.
Supply: Expected to be consistent bar a significant storms or hail in the growing regions
Inspiration: Vogue Entertaining + Travel’s Spiced Quince and Pears with baked custard
BEANS:
Beans are a staple of Autumn, with Borlotti, Butter, French, Green, Roman and Snake making an appearance.
Supply: With the rains in QLD/Nth QLD this week the market for beans has turned dramatically with supply very tight and price jumping significantly. With supply directly influenced by the weather we hope to see supply and price improve as the weather clears.
Inspiration: Teage Ezard’s Barbecued ox tongue with southern gold potatoes, snake beans and sticky mustard dressing recipe
CABBAGE:
Hitting the markets earlier than usual, cabbage lines – chinese wombok, red cabbage, Tuscan cabbage – fill the gap left by the slowing lettuce lines.
Supply: Hardier than other ground grown crops, supply should remain consistent. However excessive rain or flooding may cause splitting and as a result supply issues
Inspiration: Jacques Reymond’s Spatchcock & Buttered Cabbage with verjus
EXOTIC FRUITS:
Filling the void of the lush mangoes and berries come the passionfruit, custard apples, breadfruit, persimmon, guava and pomegranates & tamarillos
Supply: Some issues with guava supply at the moment but otherwise looking steady for the season ahead
Inspiration: Kim Woodward’s Butter roasted halibut, lobster salad, coriander pasta and passion fruit sauce
NUTS:
Autumn also sees the return of the fresh nuts- with Australian grown pistachios (NOW), almonds (Feb-Mar), Hazelnuts (Feb-Apr), Peanuts (Feb-June) and Chestnuts (Apr- Jul) on the scene!
Supply: When they hit the markets, they hit in force- though they finish all too quickly
Inspiration: Peter Gilmore’s Caramelised Vanilla Brioche French toast
PUMPKIN:
I recently read a quote that said there were four seasons, Spring, Summer, Pumpkin and Winter. With all lines including Butternut on offer in Autumn, who can blame them.
Supply: Sourced locally, pumpkins are traditionally abundant and great eating for the whole season
Inspiration: Rick Stein’s Pumpkin ravioli with sage butter
ROOT VEG:
Autumn sees the root veg come into their own with sweet potatoes, horseradish, turnip, parsnip and spud varieties (Royal Blue, Ruby Lou, Pontiac, Desiree, Burbank, Purple Congo) all coming into their own.
Supply: While supply should remain consistent, root veg are susceptible to splitting and rot with too much rain – so lets hope for some clear skies.
Inspiration: Bar H’s Sashimi of striped trumpeter with mushrooms and ginger, horseradish and soy dressing
More produce highlights for Autumn: Pine Mushrooms, Celeriac, Fennel, Leeks, Spinach and Silverbeet
A: Unfortunately it may last a while yet. The Bureau of Meteorology is predicting a wetter autumn than average for NSW and SA and a slightly drier season for VIC and TAS. There is a silver lining however, with the BOM describing their outlook model as having ‘low skill over South East NSW’ at this time of year! So you never know, blue skies could be just around the corner.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics - 27th Feb- 3rd March
With the rain impacting local ground grown crops i.e. asian leaf lines at the moment, here is our buyer's guide to what's missing or rare at the markets right now. Other leaf lines are up in price but quality is good.
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Gai Choy
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Kachay - Lotus Root - Tamarind - Water Spinach
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum - Cumquats - Guava - JuJu Fruit - Kiwifruit (gold) - Loquats - Mangosteen - Pomelos (red) - Star Apple - Tamarillo (red) - Tamarillo (gold) - Tangelos
BUYER'S GUIDE: 28th Feb - 5th Mar 2012
As your eyes at the markets, here’s this week’s seasonal update from our buyers:
Overall the general market price is down due to lower demand, but quality is still showing signs of the poor weather. Again it’s the ground grown crops, local Asian vegetables and herbs that are worst hit. Fruit is still holding and in most products there is no change in price.
Fruit:
Good supplies of New and Old season Apples. Apricots are just about all over.
Long watermelons not worth buying due to quality. Seedless same price and good gear.
Full range of Exotics from FNQ: Rambutans, Starfruit, Longans, Kett Mangos, Red Papaya, Persimmons plus more.
Vegetables:
Iceberg Lettuce, Coloured Lettuce, Gourmet Mesclums, Asian Leaf Veg and Herbs are feeling the wet and are up in price due to lower supply, quality is above par to good.
Still no shortages to pick from. The usual culprits; Broccoli, Caulies, Spuds, Carrots, Beans, Sweet Potatoes and Pumpkin are all good to go and priced well.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit:
Cavendish Bananas (QLD)
Peak Season Fig Trays (NSW)
Lychees (QLD)
Mango - Ketts (QLD)
Red Seedless Grapes (VIC)
Vegetables:
Beetroot- large (NSW)
Cauliflower (NSW)
Desiree Potatoes - large (SA)
Green Zucchini (NSW)
Sweetcorn (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit:
Banana Buds (QLD)
Banana Leaves (QLD)
Finger Limes (NSW)
Golden Delicious apples (VIC)
Longan (QLD)
Vegetables:
Green Olives - large, raw (NSW)
Kiwiberries (New Zealand)
Papaya - green/cooking (QLD)
Prickly Pear (NSW)
New Season Quince (QLD)
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply:
Borlotti Beans
Marsh Grapefruit
Yellow Paw Paw
Not Available:
Baby Gold Beetroot
Blood Orange
FRUITS OF THE VINE
Q: What is the French Paradox and what does it have to do with grapes?
In the spirit of the NSW Wine Festival taking place in Hyde Park this weekend, our bulletin this week is dedicated to the world’s fifth largest fruit crop- grapes. While an estimated 71% of grapes are destined to become wine, an impressive 27%, equivalent to around 18 million tonnes, are consumed fresh each year (FAO, 2007).
Home grown grapes are available in Australia from November to May. There are hundreds of varieties available, so many stores categorise them based on their colour and whether they have a seed. However, the different varieties do have slightly different flavours, shapes and textures, so to help you choose the right grape to go with your cheese platter and glass of vino, here’s the lowdown on Aussie grapes.
Selection & Storage:
As a general rule, for a good grape look to the stem. If it is green, firm and well attached then the fruit should be sweet and juicy.
In red and black grapes look for a light white coat on the fruit. This coating is 100% natural and protects the fruit from damage- the less coating, the more handling and longer storage time the grape will have seen. (It is also present on green varieties, but hard to see)
If you see green grapes with an amber hue, snap them up. This indicated they were ripened on the vine for longer and as with tomatoes, the longer the fruit sits on the vine, the better the flavour.
Varieties:
Table grapes have been selectively bred to cater to consumer preferences for sweet, seedless varieties- below are our top 4 in terms of production.
MENINDEE SEASON: early season
Available: Dec - Feb
Colour: light green – yellow
Size/Shape: small to medium oval
Texture: firm flesh
Flavour: sweet, very slightly tart
Seeds: No
THOMPSON SEEDLESS:
Available: Jan - May
Colour: pale golden green
Size/Shape: medium oblong
Texture: delicate skin, firm flesh
Flavour: sweet, juicy
Seeds: no
CRIMSON SEEDLESS:
Available: Feb - May
Colour: light red
Size/Shape: medium oval
Texture: thick skin, crisp flesh
Flavour: neutral, juicy
Seeds: no
RED GLOBE:
Available: Dec - May
Colour: pink-red
Size/Shape: very large, round
Texture: crisp, fleshy
Flavour: very sweet
Seeds: yes
Other varieties worth a mention include:
MUSCAT:
Available: Jan - Apr
Colour: blue- black
Size/Shape: medium round
Texture: firm skin, soft juicy flesh
Flavour: excellent sweet, musky flavour
Seeds: yes
CARDINAL:
Available: Jan - May
Colour: red – purple
Size/Shape: large, round
Texture: soft skin, juicy flesh
Flavour: distinctively sweet
Seeds: yes
FLAME SEEDLESS:
Available: Nov - Mar
Colour: dark red
Size/Shape: medium, round
Texture: crisp, crunchy
Flavour: slightly tart
Seeds: no
RIBIERS: very popular dark grape variety
Available: Feb - May
Colour: black
Size/Shape: large, round
Texture: crisp skin, tender and juicy pulp
Flavour: sweet, tart
Seeds: yes
WALTHAM CROSS:
Available: Apr-May and Nov-Dec
Colour: golden green
Size/Shape: large, oblong
Texture: firm, juicy
Flavour: sweet
Seeds: yes
A: The French Paradox refers to the inconsistency between the high level of saturated fat in the French diet and their low rate of heart disease. It is believed that the French penchant for drinking red wine, helps protects them from the dangers of eating saturated fat.
Studies show that in moderation, red wine reduces blood pressure and other risk factors of heart disease. In particular, the antioxidants contained in grape skin (only used in red wine production) are proven to reduce constriction and blockage of the blood vessels.
BUYER'S GUIDE: 21st Feb 2012 - 27th Feb 2012
As your eyes at the markets, here’s this week’s seasonal update from our buyers:
This week continues to see weather impacting local product, especially ground grown crops.
Fruit:
Cherries, are over and out. Peaches, Nectarines, Plums & Apricots are still available but we will see the end of the Apricots in the next week or two.
Apples are a thumbs up, with New Season red and green on the market. Last but not least, the tropicals; Rambos, Lychees, Carambolas, Custard Apples and Longans are in store and ready to go.
Vegetables:
The wet has taken its toll on local grown crops. All local Asian Vegetables are on the up in price... and if this wet keeps coming they may even be on the short list!
Caulie's are back in price but celery has pushed through the roof!
NSW & VIC crops have been feeling the pressure, so we could see an up in price for the next month on some of the Vegi lines. Everything else is stable for now, as it is mainly QLD supply.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit:
Apples - delicious med (NSW)
Nashi Pears (VIC)
Peaches (VIC)
Rockmelon (NSW)
Seedless Watermelon (NSW)
Vegetables:
Asparagus- medium (Imported)
Capsicum- red (QLD)
Chillies - long red (NSW)
Green Beans (QLD)
Truss tomatoes (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit:
Apples - royal gala (NSW)
Fuji Fruit (QLD)
Currants (NSW)
New Season Quince (QLD)
Rambutan(QLD)
Rhubarb (NSW)
Vegetables:
Samphire (NSW)
Treviso (NSW)
Wasabi Stems (TAS)
Winter Melon (QLD)
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply:
Yellow Paw Paw
Not Available:
Baby Gold Beetroot
Blood Orange
Heirloom Tomatoes
Yellow Teardrop Tomatoes
BUYER'S GUIDE: 14th Feb 2012 - 20th Feb 2012
As your eyes at the markets, here’s this week’s seasonal update from our buyers:
This week we will see the real effect of the weather on the local product.
Fruit:
Is less effected than ground grown crops. Holding up are lemons, some apples (Granny Smith being one) and Strawberries- with quality and a very short shelf life being the main problem here.
The rest of the crew is still safe, in good supply and well priced.
Vegetables:
Different story here with mainly the local supplied items, Herbs, Asian Leaf veg, Tomatoes, some Lettuce lines and Caulies being impacted.
The quality of the gear from across the borders is still fine for now (QLD & VIC) but extra demand has pushed prices up.
Still great buying are Beans, Corn, Caps, Zucchini, Chillies and Spuds.
If the sun comes out and stays we should see supply stabilized and prices sit in the buying zone.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit:
Fig Tray (NSW)
Grapes- red seedless (VIC)
Mango (QLD)
Pineapple - Bethonga (QLD)
Vegetables:
Asparagus- medium (Imported)
Carrots - med/lge (SA)
Green Beans (QLD)
Spanish Onion - red (TAS)
Sweetcorn (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit:
Currants (NSW)
Finger Limes (NSW)
Pears- Paradise Cocktail (NSW)
Prickly Pear (NSW)
New Season Quince (QLD)
Vegetables:
French Truffles - extra class (Imported)
Jalapeño Chillies (NSW)
Palm Hearts (Far Nth QLD)
Samphire (NSW)
Wasabi Stems
NOT THIS WEEK:
End of Season:
Cherries
Short Supply:
Heirloom tomatoes
Not Available:
Baby Gold Beetroot
Mangosteen
Purple Asparagus
FIGS: HIDDEN TREASURES
Q: Why do people call figs a ‘false fruit’?
With all this unseasonal rain, top quality strawberries are going to be thin on the ground for Valentine’s Day. So why not replace them with some fresh NSW figs! Local figs are fantastic quality at the moment, and with a long held reputation as both an aphrodisiac and symbol of romance, they will satisfy foodies and romantics alike.
As fresh figs do not ripen after harvest, pick figs that are heavy and plump with no blemishes and good colour for their variety (see below). Avoid any with a sour smell as they will be over ripe. When they split at the base, they’re ready to serve.
BLACK GENOA: Most common commercial variety in NSW
SHAPE: Med to large , squat and conical
COLOUR: Dark purple skin at maturity, dark red seeds and white flesh
AVAILABILITY : late December to May
PEFORMANCE: Distinctive rich, sweet flavour, stores well. Best for eating fresh or jams
WHITE ADRIATIC:
SHAPE: Med to large, sphere.
COLOUR: The skin is green tinged with amber when ripe. Flesh is a rich , strawberry colour
AVAILABILITY : March to May
PEFORMANCE: All purpose fig with excellent flavour. Peels easily when ripe
BROWN TURKEY:
SHAPE: Med to large, pear shape with prominent ribs and large eye
COLOUR: Thin, brown skin which is a lighter copper colour near the stem, flesh is pink-brown
AVAILABILITY : February to May
PEFORMANCE: Excellent flavour with few seeds- suited to eating fresh
PRESTON PROLIFIC: Originated in VIC, thought to be a Black Genoa seedling
SHAPE: Med to large, sphere
COLOUR: Skin changes from green to a purple brown when ripe. Pulp is amber with a tint of red and the flesh is very thick, creamy white and juicy
AVAILABILITY : February to May
PEFORMANCE: Distinctively sweet
Still not convinced? Here are some Valentine's Day inspirations with fig at their heart:
Arugula with Brûléed Figs, Ricotta, Prosciutto & Smoked Marzipan – Graham Elliot
Duck Breast with figs, burnt honey and lavender sauce – Gourmet Traveller
Figs for a Thousand and One Nights- Nigella Lawson
Fig leaf ice-cream with crushed berries and meringue- Gourmet Traveller
Baci Di Fichi - delicious magazine
A: Figs are all about hidden treasures. What we often refer to as the fruit is actually a synconium (hollow vessel) which holds the delicate flowers and seeds of the plant. In ‘persistent’ figs varieties (i.e. the ones we eat fresh) the flowers are all female and the seeds empty. Whereas dried figs are produced from varieties where the seeds are pollinated, which is how they achieve their nutty flavour.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics - 7th Feb-13th Feb
Vegie lines like Bitter Melon, Luffa, Hairy Melon, Winter Melon and Sin Que all good buying.
Leaf lines showing some signs of weather damage but still in good supply.
Chillies, plenty around so now’s the time to turn up the HEAT!
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Kachay - Lotus Root - Tamarind - Water Spinach
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum - Buddha Hands - Cumquats - Custard Apple - Fuji Fruit - Guava - JuJu Fruit - Kiwifruit (gold) - Loquats - Persimmon - Pomelos (red) - Star Apple - Tamarillo (red) - Tamarillo (gold) - Tangelos
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Mangosteen
BUYER'S GUIDE: 7th Feb 2012 - 13th Feb 2012
As your eyes at the markets, here’s this week’s seasonal update from our buyers:
Considering the poor weather in key growing areas, we are still looking good in terms of supply and price.
Fruit:
Say goodbye to Cherries, as TAS has now ended its season. Next supply will be in June when USA fruit starts.
New Season Apples are in, grapes are in full swing and a solid range of tropical fruits are coming from up north. When it comes to melons- Rocks, Honey, Long and Seedless are all good buying and eating well.
Quality on Strawberries is ranging between 7/10 to 8/10, mainly due to the weather.
Vegetables:
Broccoli and Caulies are up in price while Yellow Squash, Gold Zucchini’s and large Heirlooms Tomatoes are on the short list.
The rest of the tribe are right to go, but we will see some kick up in price on selected lines over the next few weeks.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit:
Fig Tray (NSW)
Lychees (QLD)
Papaya - red (QLD)
Peaches (NSW)
Pineapples (QLD)
Vegetables:
Cos Lettuce - large (VIC)
Eggplant (NSW)
Sweet Potato - large (QLD)
Tomatoes - small (VIC)
Zucchini - green (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Coconut - drinking (Imported)
Dates - California (Imported)
Finger Limes (NSW)
French Truffles - extra class (Imported)
Palm Hearts (Far North QLD)
Papaya - green/cooking (QLD)
New Season Quince (QLD)
Salsify- black (SA)
Winter Melon (QLD)
Wasabi Stems (TAS)
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply:
Heirloom tomatoes
Not Available:
Baby Gold Beetroot
Baby Leeks
Purple Asparagus
Yellow Zucchini
FOUR SEASONS IN ONE DAY
Q: Are seasonal guides redundant now that many produce lines are available year round?
Despite all evidence to the contrary, February is the last month of Summer and soon the hot, sunny days (we were supposed to have) will begin to give way to cooler Autumn months. Inevitably, the changing of the seasons brings new fashion and food trends, which for chef’s means a revamp of the menu.
So, to help ease the burden of menu planning we thought we would literally give you four seasons in one day and attach our new SG&S seasonal charts to this week’s bulletin. These charts serve as a quick reference guide to the fruit & veges you can expect to see in the markets each month.
These charts are also hosted on the Season’s Best section of our blog, however for those who want something more permanent to keep in their kitchen, contact SG&S and we will issue you with a laminated poster version which covers the full year.
Seasonal supply does vary, with individual lines arriving at the market early, late or in fits and starts due to unexpected weather conditions. So, keep an eye on our weekly buyer’s guide. Posted on our blog each Tuesday, these guides outline the week’s best buys, new season stock and any notable gaps in supply. To receive these updates directly, click on the follow button on the blog homepage and enter your email address.
Happy planning!
A: In short, no! We may not live by the Cordoba Calendar anymore (Google that when your bored!) but knowing your seasonal produce is the best way to serve up a cost-effective and reliable menu- rain, hail or shine. Not only will the fruit and veg you use be abundant and therefore cheaper, it will also be more nutritional and taste better, having been harvested at its peak and spared from travelling long distances.