BETTER BY THE BUNCH
Q: What is a bouquet garni?
While the cold and wet weather has impacted on some fruit and vegetables lines (read: beans, rocket, zucchini flowers), we are pleased to say that our locally-grown ‘bunch’ herbs are holding up well this winter. Not only are they high quality, but in good supply and therefore fantastic buying at the moment. Simon George & Sons has an extensive range of ‘bunch’ herbs available and while Thai Basil and Garlic Chives are currently in short supply, the varieties listed below should continue to be among our best buys over the coming weeks. So why not take advantage of the favourable conditions and stock up on some of nature’s most vibrant, mouth-watering flavour enhancers.
Selection & Storage: When selecting herbs the general rule is to look for bright, fresh leaves, free of bruising or yellowing that boast healthy, firm stems. To maximise the shelf life of most bunch herbs place them in a glass of water, cover the top of the glass with plastic, seal and place in the fridge- change the water daily.
BASIL:
Availability: all year, best Dec - Apr
Appearance: bright green, oval leaves
Flavour: slightly sweet, grassy cloves
Storage: place stems in water, cover with plastic and refrigerate. Change water daily and use within a week
Preparation: delicate herb, once sliced it browns very quickly. Quite versatile, basil can be used fresh to accent a dish or can be used as the base of a sauce or to accent flavours such as tomato
BAY LEAF:
Availability: all year
Appearance: bright green, pointed, smooth leaves
Flavour: earthy aroma, almost bitter edge
Selection: leaves should be bright green with a glossy top and boast a strong aroma
Storage: store in airtight container in fridge or freeze in an airtight bag
Preparation: slow cooking specialist, removed before consumption
CHERVIL: aka French parsley
Availability: Apr - Dec
Appearance: looks similar to parsley or a carrot top
Flavour: aniseed, parsley
Preparation: flavour is lost when dried or cooked, so use fresh in salads or as a garnish
CORIANDER: aka cilantro
Availability: all year
Appearance: broad bright green, feathered leaf
Flavour: pungent, distinct aroma
Preparation: use in Thai or Asian cooking especially curries, stir-fries, salads. Add stems of leaves as base of sauce, then delicate leaves prior to serving to get maximum flavour and as a striking garnish.
DILL: aka dill weed
Availability: all year
Appearance: fine, feathered, blue-green leaves
Flavour: light, aromatic grassy flavour
Selection: leaves should be nicely feathered and stems firm and healthy
Preparation: add just before serving to fish, egg, potato dishes or as a garnish
LAVENDER:
Availability: Spring - Autumn
Appearance: green stems and distinctive small, purple flowers
Flavour: delicate, floral flavour, with citrus overtones
Preparation: flowers and leaves can be used. Most often used in baking (ground into sugar), desserts, meaty stews, salads or as a garnish (even as a garnish in a glass of champers)
LEMON BALM: aka balm mint, sweet balm
Availability: short season, spring-summer
Appearance: heart shaped, veined leaves covered with coarse hairs
Flavour: fresh lemon aroma and flavour
Preparation: Fantastic with fish. Add late in the cooking process or use fresh in salads or as a garnish. Combines well with Chervil
LEMON GRASS:
Availability: all year- peak in warm weather
Appearance: long grass –like stalks
Flavour: pungent, distinctive lemon hit
Preparation: peel tough outer layers of stem and trim base. If using as an infusion, bruise the stem to release oils before adding. Or finely chop into stir-fries, curries etc
MARJORAM: aka sweet marjoram
Availability: all year
Appearance: woody stems, small, oval leaves (that fall on opposite sides of the stem) and white flowers
Flavour: delicate and aromatic- sweeter and milder than oregano
Preparation: fantastic with roast meat dishes, in stuffing (vege, chicken or meat) and as a garnish on salads, egg and potato dishes
MINT:
COMMON MINT:
Availability: all year
Appearance: wrinkled leaves,
Flavour: refreshing, unique aroma and flavour
Preparation: savoury and sweet
VIETNAMESE MINT: aka hot mint
Availability: all year
Appearance: long, pointed leaves with a purple tint at base (distinct band across leaf)
Flavour: spicy, citrusy, pepper flavour – common in South East Asian, Vietnamese cuisine
Preparation: rinse gently and use raw in salads, summer rolls, shredded into laksa or stews
SPEARMINT:
Availability: all year
Appearance: light green, wrinkled leaves
Flavour: sweet, refreshing mint flavour
Preparation: most commonly used mint variety for cooking – fantastic in savoury meat dishes, salads, desserts (chocolate) or cocktails
OREGANO: aka wild marjoram
Availability: all year
Appearance: tiny leaves and pink/purple edible flowers on a woody stem
Flavour: slightly sharp, warm, pungent flavour
Preparation: quite hardy, add early in the cooking process as slow cooking enhances flavour
PARSLEY:
CONTINENTAL PARSLEY aka Italian parsley
Availability: all year
Appearance: flat, cut leaves
Flavour: refreshing aroma, mild flavour
Preparation: best variety for cooking as its bright flavour holds up well and will enhance the accompanying flavours in the dish
CURLY PARSLEY aka English Parsley
Availability: all year
Appearance: dark green leaves that curl up at the edges
Flavour: coarser flavour than continental parsley
Preparation: edible stems and leaves, refreshing and visually appealing garnish
ROSEMARY:
Availability: all year
Appearance: long, sharp leaves
Flavour: warm, pepper
Preparation: a hardy plant, rosemary is often used as a base to roasting meat dishes such as lamb and poultry- firm woody stem also serves as a fantastic skewer that subtly flavours the meat as it marinades and cooks
SAGE: aka kitchen sage
Availability: all year
Appearance: green, leathery leaves that are covered in fine hairs. They can be long and slim or slightly broader
Flavour: musky, pepper flavour
Preparation: good cooking herb especially with fatty or oily foods. Also good in soups, mash potato, marinades or baking
TARRAGON: a very delicate herb, tarragon tends to wilt after harvest. This does not impact the flavour
TARRAGON:
Availability: all year
Appearance: long, slim leaves on a woody stem with a stunning edible, yellow flower that appears in winter as its natural season ends
Flavour: spicy, aniseed with a slightly sweet, tart aftertaste
Preparation: a classic French herb, tarragon is a well known ingredient in béarnaise sauce and compound butters – popular herb for flavouring fish and chicken dishes
FRENCH TARRAGON:
Availability: all year – easily affected by weather therefore supply can fluctuate throughout the year
Appearance: long, slim, glossy green leaves
Flavour: stronger than regular tarragon but still boasts the same slightly tart, aniseed punch
Preparation: use more sparingly due to its powerful flavour
THYME: best with strong flavoured dishes as it can overpower a dish very easily
THYME:
Availability: all year
Appearance: woody stem with tiny, grey-green rounded leaves
Flavour: strong, pungent aroma – spicy, pepper flavour
Preparation: fantastic for slow cooking as holds flavour well
LEMON THYME: aka citrus thyme
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, heart shaped leaves (green/yellow) on a woody stem
Flavour: strong lemon aroma and mild flavour
Preparation: sweet and savoury
WATERCRESS:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, rounded pale green leaves on light green stems
Flavour: zesty, slightly bitter
Preparation: use torn into soups, salads, sandwiches or as a garnish
A: A bouquet garni is a bundle of aromatic herbs tied together with string and dropped into soups, stews, stocks and casseroles to add flavour. The bouquet garni allows chefs to capture the flavour of the herbs, while also having the freedom to remove them at any stage of the cooking process. While there is no set recipe, the Bouquet Garni is traditionally known to feature parsley, thyme, bay leaves and possible marjoram- however celery, leeks, carrots and a variety of other herbs are often added into the mix. In fact, the Larousse Gastronomique notes that in ancient times the bouquet garni contained cloves and was wrapped up using a thin slice of lard.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 26th Jun- 2nd Jul
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Gai Choy * Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Banana Buds/Bell * Figs * Tamarillo (gold)
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Buddha Hands * Cumquats * Longans * Loquats * Lychee * Rambutan
BUYER'S GUIDE: 26th Jun- 2nd Jul
The market is in good shape this week with only some slight issues:
QLD: Extreme cold snap is affecting a few lines. Good quality but slow growth and delay picking of beans, corn, peas, medium strawberries, rocket, rockmelons, bananas and raspberries. So stock is in short supply driving a price rise.
VIC: Experiencing lots of rain all over the state which in turn is affecting rocket, broccoli, iceberg lettuce and celery crops.
Noteworthy: Quinces are on their way out (end of season). New season USA Cherries are in stock now (for next 6 weeks). We have aromatic, Australian Black Truffles available by the gram.
Short Supply: Chestnut mushrooms, Zucchini flowers, pink and yellow mushroom, baby Zucchini , golden beetroots, and yellow chives
Great buys: Honeydew, Passionfruit, Green Zucchini, Papaya, Green Mango, Desiree large and bunched herbs.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit: Cherries (Imp- USA) * Corella Pears (VIC) * Oranges - juicing (NSW) * Pawpaw- yellow (QLD) * Red seedless grapes (VIC)
Vegetable: Cos Lettuce - large (NSW) * Medium Potatoes- washed (SA) * Rhubarb (QLD) * Spring Onions (QLD) * Zucchini - green (QLD)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit: Dragonfruit- yellow (QLD) * Green Mangoes (NT) * Nashi Pears (VIC) * Pink Lady Apples (VIC)
Vegetable: Broad bean (NSW) * Portabello Mushroom (NSW) * Purple Carrots * Tuscan Cabbage (NSW)
Other: Black Truffles (WA- New Season) * Chestnuts (VIC)
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply: Baby Gold Beetroot * Chestnut Mushroom * Oyster Mushrooms (pink & yellow) * Wild Rocquette * Zucchini Flower (female)
Not Available: Blood Oranges * Slippery Jacks Mushrooms * Wild Pine Mushrooms *
QUESTION TIME:
Q: What do eggs and potatoes have in common?
At Simon George & Sons we like to work closely with our clients, listen to their needs and then shape our service accordingly. So this week, I thought I would take the opportunity to answer our most frequently asked questions about produce. It is interesting that some of the more ‘commonplace’ produce on our quote tends to generate the most questions, for example one of the most FAQ of our team relates to the classification of eggs (what do they mean and how should they affect my purchasing decisions?). Meanwhile, the #1 most searched product on our blog (by a long way) is the humble potato – with people wanting to know what varieties are out there and how to use them. I have done my best to answer these questions below, should you have any products or produce trends that you would like to see featured on the blog, please don’t hesitate to contact me.
EGGS: Simon George & Sons is HACCP accredited for the storage and distribution of eggs
Purchasing eggs has become much more difficult. With no centralized classification system, egg producers can be accredited by one of any number of different associations, each with very different requirements to achieve accreditation. So what do these mean?
ORGANIC: organic and humane
Buying organic states that the eggs have been produced on a certified ‘organic’ farm by chickens who have been fed only certified organic feed/grain and treated humanely (roam free, outdoor access, no beak-trimming or wing-clipping).
Simon George & Sons stock 60gm organic eggs
FREE-RANGE: access to outdoor areas
There has been some controversy surrounding ‘free-range eggs’ of late, with the lack of a formal definition coming under fire. The number of hens per m² can vary hugely from farm to farm, however 90% of free-range egg producers in Australia are accredited by the Egg Corporation of Australia, which allow farmers to keep an equivalent of 2 hens/m². Free-range hens are housed in sheds but must have access to outdoor area.
Simon George & Sons stock 70gm free-range eggs
BARN-LAID:
Barn-laid is an alternative system to Free-Range farming- the chickens do not have outdoor access but roam freely around a multi-tiered barn that accommodates fundamental needs such as dust-bathing, scratching, enclosed nest boxes. Density of the hens in the barn varies per farmer and accreditation.
Simon George & Sons stock 60 & 70 gm barn-laid eggs from Llandilo farm
CAGE EGGS:
Simon George & Sons sells caged eggs in 50, 60 and 70 gram sizes, these can be supplied in tray pack or carton.
POTATOES:
There are hundreds of potatoes on the markets and with more varieties being developed all the time, the question seems to be- which should you use for what? Below is a list of the most common commercial potato varieties, their classification i.e. waxy vs floury and recommended use.
Waxy: low starch (16-18%) and high moisture content
Best for salads, stews, soups or anything where you want the potato to hold shape
Bintje
Dutch Cream
Kipfler
Nadine
Nicola
Patrone – the salad potato
Pink Eye
Pink Fir Apple
Purple Congo – avoid roasting
Red Delight
Ruby Lou
All-rounders: Are neither waxy nor floury
Lend themselves to a variety of cooking methods
Desiree – avoid frying
Kennebec – chip
Pontiac
Purple Jester
Red Rascal
Royal Blue
Sebago
Spunta
Toolangi delight - gnocchi
Floury: high starch (20-22%) and low moisture content
Release starch when boiled or fried, best for roasting, baking (in skins) and mashing. If you want to make chips or use them in a salad, soak first.
Coliban
Golden Delight
King Edward - mash
Russet Burbank
A: They come alive when you add fresh truffles!
While fresh black truffles are as expensive as they are delicious, they also add a whole new dimension to potato and egg dishes. Simon George & Sons has fresh Black truffles available, with extra class, first class and pieces selling by the gram. With the WA season up and running , the first of the NSW truffles being dug up this week and Tasmanian truffles yet to come -we are looking at a harvest to remember.
Eggs: add unique character to egg dishes without using a single gram. Grab a large glass jar and place a bed of rice at the bottom. Layer your eggs, truffles (wrapped in absorbent paper) and finally a knob of butter on top of the rice. Close the jar and refrigerate for 48 hours, after which the egg, rice and butter will all be infused with the unique truffle aroma.
Potatoes: with your truffle still whole and ready to use, why not add that gourmet touch to your potatoes and finely slice or shave fresh black truffle through a rich, creamy mash.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 19th Jun-25th Jun
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Gai Choy * Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Banana Buds/Bell * Tamarillo (gold)
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Buddha Hands * Cumquats * Green mangoes * Longans * Loquats * Lychee * Rambutan
BUYER'S GUIDE: 19th Jun-25th Jun
The cooler weather has slowed down supply of some products, mainly Honeydews, Tomatoes and Strawberries. Quality is sound, just up in price slightly this week.
Overall the market is in good shape, with plenty to choose from.
Highlights: Australian Truffles Season is up and running and USA cherries Cumquats are on the markets also.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit: Cherries (Imp- USA) * Delicious Apples- med (VIC) * Panama Passionfruit * Pineapple (QLD) * Ruby blush grapefruit (WA)
Vegetable: Brussel sprouts (VIC) * Kipfler Potatoes * Mesclun Lettuce* Red capsicum (QLD) * Silverbeet (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit: Blood Limes (NSW) * Honey Pears * Pink Lady Apples (VIC) * Pomello - red (QLD) * Starfruit- aka Carambola (QLD)
Vegetable: Broad bean (NSW) * Green Peas ( QLD) * Truffles - superior black (WA - new season) * Witlof - white
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply: Baby gold beetroot * Chestnut Mushroom * Snow Peas - expensive * Yellow Zucchini
Not Available: Blood Oranges
IN THE FINEST TRADITION
Q: What is the oldest recipe collection in the world?
It seems that wherever you turn at the moment, Europe is on the tip of everyone’s tongue. Whether it's the Euro versus the dollar, the babushkas performance at Eurovision or the early morning Euro 2012 matches - European Culture is well and truly on the agenda in Australia. So without further ado, this week we're featuring traditional dishes from the hot contenders at the Euro 2012’s competition and celebrating the fresh produce that makes them odds on favourites.
GERMANY
Red Cabbage:
Availability: all year, best Mar – May
Appearance: compact head of smooth red-purple leaves with small white veins
Selection: choose heads that are heavy for size, with crisp, bright leaves
Prep: when cooking add lemon or vinegar to water to protect colour, beware of colour bleeding into other ingredients
Traditional dish: ROTKOHL (sweet & sour red cabbage) - often served with winter dishes such as beef in buttermilk
Modern inspiration: Mustard and sage pork cutlets with red wine cabbage and lentils
SPAIN:
Tomatoes (Heirloom):
Availability: all year, fluctuates
Appearance: compact head of smooth red-purple leaves with small white veins
Selection: choose heads that are heavy for size, with crisp, bright leaves
Prep: when cooking add lemon or vinegar to water to protect colour, beware of colour bleeding into other ingredients
Traditional dish: GAZPACHO – raw vegetable soup served cold
Modern inspiration: Hand-pounded Gazpacho
FRANCE:
Aubergine: aka eggplant
Availability: all year, best Jan - Jul
Appearance: smooth purple fruit- pear shaped with glossy skin
Selection: look for firm, glossy, bright, skin. Should feel heavy for size.
Prep: highly versatile, can be sauteed, baked, roasted, fried, stuffed, stir fried, steamed or grilled
Traditional dish: RATATOUILLE – vegetable dish often used as a side
Modern inspiration: Yotam Ottolenghi's Indian ratatouille recipe
ENGLAND:
Rhubarb:
Availability: all year, best Jun - Dec
Appearance: look likes red celery
Selection: choose stalks that are crisp, firm, glossy and bright
Prep: once leaves are removed, cook and add to pies, crumbles or even slice finely and add to a salad
Traditional dish: RHUBARB & CUSTARD
Modern inspiration: Rhubarb semifreddo and pistachio cream with a honey madeleine
ITALY:
Tuscan Cabbage: aka Black Cabbage or Cavalo Nero
Availability: all year
Appearance: sold in bunches of long dark green leaves. The leaves are heavily bubbled with a thick, white vein from stem to tip
Selection: look for firm, plump stalks and bright, fresh leaves
Prep: traditionally used in soups and pastas or steamed, also a fantastic stir-fry vegetable
Traditional dish: RIBOLITTA: Tuscan Cabbage bread soup
Modern inspiration: Ditalini, borlotti bean and cavolo nero soup
RUSSIA:
Beetroot:
Availability: all year, best during cooler months
Appearance: bright red – deep purple tuber (often has white streaks)
Selection: choose beets that are crisp, firm, glossy and bright- fresh leaves are a good indicator
Prep: rinse in cold water, cook in boiling water, then remove skin
Traditional dish: BORSCHT
Modern Inspiration: Beetroot Soup with fetta
A: While many chefs have heard of ‘De re coquinaria’ (The Art of Cooking by Apicius) there is actually a much older recipe book in the Yale University Collection. The recipes are carved into ancient tablets dating back to approximately 1700BC. Originally believed to be pharmaceutical/medicinal in nature, it was only when successfully deciphered in the mid 80s that they were identified as recipes. Jean Bottero who translated the tablets describes the food as "a cuisine of striking richness, refinement, sophistication and artistry, which is surprising from such an early period. Previously we would not have dared to think a cuisine 4,000 years old was so advanced."
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 12th Jun-18th Jun
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Gai Choy * Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Banana Buds/Bell * Longans * Tamarillo (gold)
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Buddha Hands * Cumquats * Green mangoes * Loquats * Lychee * Rambutan
PLAY THE MARKET
Q: What do SG&S buyers look for in their produce?
The off-peak season has hit Sydney and with the half-way point of the year fast approaching, now is an ideal time to reflect on the year that has been and kick-start your plans for the year to come. In our first bulletin of 2012, I talked about working ‘smarter not harder’ by monitoring the markets and staying a step ahead of fluctuations in both supply and price. Many of you have done just that and participated in one of our guided tours of the Sydney Markets, but for those of you yet to take part or for those seeking further inspiration, we invite you to put yourself in the driver’s seat and join us for an early morning, hands-on exploration of Sydney’s seasonal produce.
These tours enable chefs, procurement managers and other interested parties to experience first-hand how the range, quality and supply of different produce lines fluctuate throughout the year and how this then influences our buyer’s purchasing decisions. We encourage all our clients to take part in a market tour at least once a year, as they not only assist in menu planning, but also help SG&S to stay abreast of the changing needs of your kitchen and ultimately improve the service we provide. To whet the appetite, below are some insights into produce items/classifications that have recently raised interest at our market tours.
POTATOES:
Information on potatoes and best use by variety has to be one of our most ‘Frequently Asked Questions’. With over 66 varieties of tatties commercially grown in Australia, talking directly to the grower/agent, cutting them open and seeing their consistency (floury/waxy etc) can help answer these questions and aid in selection.
PURPLE JESTER:
Availability: Winter crop
Appearance: naturally coloured with the same antioxidants as red grapes, the purple jester has a dark purple skin and bright purple flesh
Characteristics: full potato flavour and aroma
Best for: impact and quality in salads, small baked potato sides etc. Very versatile the purple jester can be baked, roasted, boiled, steamed
POMELOS:
WHITE:
Availability: Mar - Nov
Appearance: light green- yellow thick skin and pale yellow flesh
Characteristics: sweet, mild grapefruit flavour
Best for: fresh consumption
PINK:
Availability: Jun - Nov
Appearance: light green- yellow thick skin and pink flesh
Characteristics: sharper flavour than white variety
Best for: use like a pomegranate in salads or similar dishes
TOMATOES:
Similarly to potatoes there is an abundance of wonderful tomatoes at the markets. With the susceptibility of tomatoes to weather damage however it is helpful to handle and taste different varieties that could substitute for traditional romas or cherries in the kitchen.
HEIRLOOM: Zebrino
Availability: all year
Appearance: small round tomatoes with distinctively striped skin and flesh that varies from a deep green to red-brown
Characteristics: sweet, aromatic flavour
Best for: substitute for cherry tomatoes for high impact colour and a sweet tomato flavour
GOLF BALL: (refers to size rather than variety)
Availability: all year
Appearance: round, red tomato approximately the size of a golf ball
Characteristics: consistent in size, shape, flesh, seeds like a small gourmet tomato
Best for: great as a substitute for Romas and for portion control i.e. breakfast or salad tomato. Also good for roasting whole
BEANS:
As explored in our recent ‘Full of Beans’ bulletin, green beans are sold under classifications of machine picked, hand-picked and baby. Being on site at the markets, inspecting the quality of the beans and sampling their flavour, really is the best way to truly understand these distinctions and which is most suitable to your needs (and budget).
A: Each season the markets see new lines hitting the stands in response to agricultural development and changing culinary tastes, it also sees changing climate conditions and therefore hits and misses from our farmers and their harvests. Every foodservice business is different and as a result each client has individual needs and preferences relating to size, colour, and the maturity of their produce. To meet these needs and stay ahead of the changing market landscape, the buying team at Simon George & Sons works closely with over 400 growers/sellers, filtering through the 2.5 million tonnes of fresh fruit and veges sold at the Sydney Markets each year to source the highest quality produce for our clients at the best possible price.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 5th June - 12th June
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Gai Choy * Thai Basil * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Kachay * Tamarind
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Asian Plum * Cumquats * Green Mangoes * Lychee * Rambutan